Vancouver, BC

We took off from the Port of Nanaimo on Monday, September 22 and traveled across to Newcastle Island Marine Park, a journey of about half a mile. We needed to reset the anchor after our first try because we weren’t happy with our position and while we were hauling up the anchor to try again our windlass stopped working. That means extra hard work pulling up the anchor and chain for Ralph. Luckily we were happy with our second try. There was plenty of anchorage room at the island and the views of Nanaimo and the park were pretty. We had a peaceful night at anchor.

The next day was the first full day of autumn, and as we listened to the weather report there was some heavy weather predicted to come in. The rain started early and we decided to pull up the anchor and tie up to the marine park dock given the wind predictions (gale warnings), and the situation with our windlass which would make it difficult to reset the anchor if we needed to in the heavy winds. We were able to take a short walk at the island before the rain got too heavy. We had a fine night. It’s a really pretty place and we hope to come back again.

On Wednesday we headed across the Strait of Georgia to Vancouver. There were remnants of the storm still present, and it wasn’t an easy trip, but it was uneventful. We arrived in Vancouver at around 4:30 pm, about a 7-hour trip from the Nanaimo area.

When we went to the Sceptre rendezvous earlier in September we were invited to visit some of the other owners in Vancouver. They graciously arranged for moorage for us at the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club. The first two nights we stayed at the Jericho Beach location and we had dinner with our friends Anne and Henri at the club on Wednesday. It was very nice, especially after a long and uncomfortable day on the water. On Thursday, intrepid Anne took us on a wonderful 10+ mile bike ride around Vancouver. The city is magnificent; miles of walking and bike trails, Stanley Park (think of a smaller version on Central Park), and a beautiful waterfront.   On Friday, our friend Phill accompanied us to move Toga to the Coal Harbour location of RVYC, which is in downtown Vancouver. There was a pretty steady rain, and I felt like we were getting a real northwest experience! This is such a great spot, right across from the Park. Phill and his wife Nancy made us a special homemade lunch aboard their boat, Forever Young, and brought us a cake to celebrate our 22nd wedding anniversary! We are getting spoiled, I tell you.

Saturday, after a great brunch with our Sceptre friends, Phill took us to look at a couple of boat yards and we got to see more of the greater Vancouver area. We have been doing a lot of research and we are getting closer to finding a safe place to put the boat to bed for the winter out of the water where we can do work on it when we like, etc. We were sort of planning on keeping it in Tacoma, but the yard we were thinking of does not have any openings.

Sunday was a beautiful day and we went for a sail on Anne and Henri’s boat, Ariel X. It was a real treat, and we had a great time. Today it’s raining. I think it’s sinking in that the summer is over.

 

Harbor seal doing the backstroke in the marina

Harbor seal doing the backstroke in the marina

Vancouver

Vancouver

Downtown Vancouver's bike path

Downtown Vancouver’s bike path

RVYC pretty staircase and emblem

RVYC pretty staircase and emblem

22nd anniversary cake!

22nd anniversary cake!

The squirrels are almost black here

The squirrels are almost black here

Toga at the dock

Toga at the dock

Granville Island Market selections

Granville Island Market selections

Cruise ship parked at Nanaimo

Cruise ship parked at Nanaimo

Newcastle Island

Protection Island (as seen from Newcastle Island) – Dinghy Dock pub. You can only get there by boat.

Rainbow at Newcastle Island

Rainbow at Newcastle Island

Evening lights at Nanaimo

Evening lights at Nanaimo

Totem pole at Newcastle Island Park

Totem pole at Newcastle Island Park

Crossing the Strait of Georgia - barge hauling sawdust

Crossing the Strait of Georgia – barge hauling sawdust

Approaching Vancouver

Approaching Vancouver

Underway in the rain

Underway in the rain

View from the back porch

View from the back porch – that is the seawall bike path at Stanley Park

Canada Geese

Canada Geese

Evening lights of downtown Vancouver

Evening lights of downtown Vancouver

Lion's gate bridge

Lion’s gate bridge

Nanaimo, Vancouver Island, BC

Nanaimo, Vancouver Island, BC

We took off from Salt Spring Island on Monday, 9/15, after pulling up our anchor and chain covered with very sticky mud.  Now we understand why everyone has an anchor wash down pump aboard; it was quite a mess!

We headed to Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park on Galiano Island, and it was a quick trip; only about 2 hours.  The Park is very lovely and serene.  The Marine Parks usually consist of an area for anchorage, mooring balls for $12/night, some dock space for smaller boats, and some camp grounds ashore.  The walking at this park was great, beautiful views from the trails.  There is a bus that comes from the Hummingbird Pub during the summer months, but we didn’t make it during this visit.  When we were planning to go the wind came up and we weren’t comfortable leaving the boat.  But there is always next year!

On Wednesday we left Montague mid morning in the light rain.  We were headed for Nanaimo because we had some pressing business with the US Coast Guard and needed to get to a major port so we could print and fax documents.  There was no wind, so we motored and we didn’t mind the rain. We stopped for the night at Clam Bay, which is between Kuper and Thetis Islands.  What a lovely spot! It was absolutely calm and there were no boats anywhere near us, just ducks and geese.  We were sad to leave the next morning.

In order to get to Nanaimo, we needed to pass through a small opening called Dodd Narrows.  The passage is usually timed for at or near slack water, which means the time when the current is not flowing.  During other times the current can move up to 8 knots.  Again, we were motoring.  The narrows are aptly named – it’s narrow in there! But it’s very short.  We passed through with no problems.

After we passed through the narrows, we immediately saw a huge lumber and plywood processing plant.  Quite a change from where we started the day! We arrived at the Port of Nanaimo and docked at about 2 pm.  While we have been here we have done laundry, eaten out a couple of times, restocked on groceries, refilled our water tank, emptied our holding tank, charged our battery bank, washed down the boat and cleaned the inside, taken care of our coast guard business, reconnected to the world on Wifi and taken several warm showers.  Everything a boater needs to refresh themselves is here.  It’s a very comfortable place to stop.

A few days ago we met a local wood carver, Frank, who is part of the Coast Salish people (In the US we refer to Native Americans; in Canada they refer to First Nation).  Frank is a wood carver and after talking with him, we asked him to carve a dolphin for us for a v-berth hanging.  We were really happy to meet Frank and we are very pleased with our dolphin.

The warm weather continues here.  The rain only lasted a couple of days, and it is beautiful again.

 

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Approaching Montague Harbour

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Anchored at Montague Harbour

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Beach at Montague – I waded in the 60 degree water and Ralph actually dove in. Refreshing!

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Art work left on the train at Montague Harbour

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Walk-in camp site at Montague Harbour

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Serene Clam Bay

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Anchored at Clam Bay

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Approaching Dodd Narrows – it’s that tiny opening!

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Image of Dodd Narrows after we passed through

 

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River otters on the dock in Nanaimo

 

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River otters on the dock in Nanaimo

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Our new friend Frank and the dolphin he carved and his wife, Dora, painted

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The “famous” Nanaimo bar, which consists of a cookie crust, custard filling and a chocolate top. Not bad!

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Toga at the dock in Nanaimo

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So many islands

Ganges Harbour, Salt Spring Island, BC

We left Brentwood Bay around 2 pm on Monday, Sept 8th after my new friend Leoni graciously took me grocery shopping in town.  We had another spectacular day as far as weather.  We decided to head to Genoa Bay, upcoast from our location and also on Vancouver Island.

There was quite a bit of wind and we had a very brisk sail (over 8 knots at times) to Genoa.  We approached the bay carefully as there was an obstacle listed on the charts, but we had no problem.  There were only a couple of other boats there and we set the anchor easily in the beautiful bay.

After a relaxing afternoon and restful night we took a dinghy ride around the bay and into the marina to see what it was like.  They have a nice restaurant there as well as a cute store and a friendly atmosphere.  We ended up getting block ice at the store for our ice box there before leaving the next day.  We headed out on Wednesday morning to Portland Island, which is a small marine park.  When we got to the island and found the anchorage, it was so small that we didn’t feel comfortable anchoring there.  Since we were meeting our friends from San Pedro, Sue and Dick/Changing Tide at Ganges Harbour, Salt Spring Island, we decided to head there early.  We arrived in the harbor at about 4 pm and set the anchor.

This is a wonderful place! There are several marinas here, but we are comfortable in the anchorage area.  There is a great market in town right by the dinghy dock – so convenient!  There are many farms on Salt Spring Island as well as a lot of artists and earthy folks. we went to the open air market on Saturday and I got some wonderful local apples. mmmmm.

We spent one afternoon kayaking around in the bay next to here, Madrona Bay.  We were watching a sailboat coming through a narrow passage where we knew there were rocks, but we thought that they must be aware of the danger.  The next moment, BAM! – they were wedged onto the rocks that were just below the surface of the water.  I couldn’t believe it. A power boat was nearby and offered help – the man from the sailboat rowed over in his dinghy with a line and after both boats had secured the line, the power boat dragged the sailboat off of the rocks!  What a scene.

We met up with Sue and Dick on Friday and had lunch with them in town and then happy hour aboard Changing Tide, a beautiful boat.  This is their third year cruising this area and it’s great to get tips and insights from them.  We all had dinner together aboard Toga Saturday night and it was great fun to catch up.

Sue and Dick took off yesterday and Ralph and I caught the shuttle bus to the Island Fall Fair, where we had such fun.  It was a real agricultural fair that included sheep dog demonstrations, tractor pulls, all kinds of animals on display as well as contests for local flowers, quilt makers, baked goods.  We sampled the pie, hard to choose from over 40 varieties on sale.  We had a wild blueberry pie and it was great.

We plan to head out this morning to a nearby island.  We are having hot weather and things are lovely.  We’re all smiles!

 

Fair crowd

Fair crowd

Prize winning pumpkin

Prize winning pumpkin

Sheep dog demonstration

Sheep dog demonstration

Zucchini car races!

Zucchini car races!

Livestock on show

Livestock on show

Sheep shearing demonstration

Sheep shearing demonstration

Prize winning quilt

Prize winning quilt

Prize willing Dahlias

Prize willing Dahlias

Fun at the country fair

Fun at the country fair

Changing Tide departing Ganges

Changing Tide departing Ganges

Beautiful island scenery

Beautiful island scenery

Island scenery

Island scenery, snow capped Mt. Baker in the background

Natural hair drying

Natural hair drying

Ralph said to tell you this is one of the uglier sunsets in the islands

Ralph said to tell you this is one of the uglier sunsets in the islands

Not a bad house location!

Not a bad house location!

Lovely Genoa Bay

Lovely Genoa Bay

Leaving Brentwood Bay

 

Kayaking in Madrona Bay

Kayaking in Madrona Bay

Canadian beer time

Canadian beer time

Entering Genoa Bay

Entering Genoa Bay

Sailing full speed ahead

Sailing full speed ahead

 

Brentwood Bay, Vancouver Island, BC

We left Friday Harbor on Wednesday, Sept 3 and headed to Stuart Island, Reid Harbor. The wind was light and we motored with the current, arriving in about 3.5 hours.  The harbor was a fairly deep inlet and after we set the anchor I realized that the scene was pretty close to what I had envisioned when we talked about coming to these islands.  It was tranquil and beautiful.  There is reported to be a great hike on the island, but we planned to leave the next morning so we just relaxed.  It was wonderful and the stars were amazing.

We left mid morning on Thursday and had a great sail, again going with the current, so we made good progress.  When we crossed the border we raised a small Canadian flag, known as a courtesy flag.  This is a custom among boaters as well as a maritime rule.  As we grew nearer to Port Sidney, we decided instead to go to Tsehum (“see-um”) Harbour, which, like Sidney, is a Canadian port of entry.  We pulled into Van Isle marina at about 2 pm – the weather was fantastic! Nice and sunny and very warm.

We had called ahead to the marina and were instructed to tie up at the customs dock, which was at the end of the fuel dock.  As we pulled in, a young lady in a blue uniform was there to help us tie the lines.  I assumed she was a Customs agent, but she was a marina employee just being helpful.  On the dock there was a payphone with an 888 number for customs.  I called in, answered a few simple questions, and that was it!  The process was much simpler than we expected.

We decided to stay the night at Van Isle Marina and it was a first rate place.  The marina was full of very expensive yachts, and walking the docks was impressive.  We sent some time cleaning up the boat as we have been away from a marina for about 10 days.

Friday morning we left Tsehum Harbour and headed to Brentwood Bay.  We came here to attend a rendezvous for Sceptre sailboats.  The event was held at the home of one of the owners, and Brentwood Bay is a really great place.  At the end of the bay is Butchart Gardens, one of the world’s top botanical gardens.

The party started Friday evening with a happy hour gathering.  Right away Ralph and I felt at home and comfortable with our new friends.  Saturday morning I went to the Butchart Gardens with one of my new friends and Ralph attended a gam session (gam – A social visit or friendly interchange, especially between seafarers).  The gardens were fantastic and Ralph enjoyed his time swapping stories. Saturday afternoon we played a couple of games – one was a dinghy race where one person had to hold an egg in a spoon while the other navigated a course and we were timed.  The other was a sort of scavenger hunt where we went around the bay on a dinghy with our team and found clues.  Both games were really fun and Ralph and I actually won the egg race!  Also, not to brag too much, but my team won the scavenger hunt too!  Beginners luck, I think. 🙂

Last night we had a lovely dinner and visit and this morning we are meeting up for breakfast before we all go our separate ways.  Ralph and I are so glad that we attended this function – we found a bunch of kindred spirits here,a wealth of information about our boat, and some exciting invitations to visit our new friends – most of whom are Canadians.  So far our impression of Canada could not be more positive.

Here is a little video footage we took the other day: http://youtu.be/aUe22h6q2r4

 

 

Stuart Island, Reid Harbor

Stuart Island, Reid Harbor

Canadian courtesy flag hoisted!

Canadian courtesy flag hoisted!

Stuart Island, Reid Harbor

Stuart Island, Reid Harbor

Tsehum Harbour, Sidney, BC - lots of mega yachts

Tsehum Harbour, Sidney, BC – lots of mega yachts

Sceptre's rafted together in Brentwood Bay

Sceptre’s rafted together in Brentwood Bay

Sailing@

Sailing@

Thousands of Dahlia's at the Butchart gardens

Thousands of Dahlia’s at the Butchart gardens

I love these flowers, need to find out what they are

I love these flowers, need to find out what they are

Butchart gardens

Butchart gardens

Roses in their second bloom at Butchart Gardens

Roses in their second bloom at Butchart Gardens

Japanese Garden at Butchart

Japanese Garden at Butchart

This is the Butchart gardens dinghy dock - we motored over here and entered the gardens this way

This is the Butchart gardens dinghy dock – we motored over here and entered the gardens this way

 

Friday Harbor, San Juan Island and Toga Video #5

Friday Harbor, San Juan Island and Toga Video #5

We had a really great hike to Cascade Lake on Orcas Island on Saturday.  We went all the way around the lake, about 7 miles.  It was beautiful! There were several people swimming and we wished we’d brought our suits.  I don’t think I’ve mentioned this, but the sea water here is about 55 degrees, so we haven’t been tempted to swim.  However, apparently, the lake was warmer.

Our friends came in to the marina at Rosario on Saturday and it was fun to see them (Ron is a former partner of mine from KPFF, from the Seattle office).  Ron and Trung have a 42′ Catalina sailboat and they brought along their three children as well as another family of four.  The kids had fun swimming in the resort pools and running around.  On Sunday they fed us two meals!  What a treat.  It was great to be among friends and hang out.  We hope to get together with them again soon.

On Monday we headed out of Cascade Bay to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.  After leaving the east sound of Orcas Island, there is an intersection where several channels cross – boy, is that busy!  All kinds of boats, passenger ferries, etc.  We heard some testy exchanges on the VHF radio, but we stayed out of trouble.

We were able to sail a little on the way to Friday Harbor, but mostly the wind was on the nose.  When we arrived, there was a lot of action happening here.  Friday Harbor is the government and commercial center of the San Juan Islands as well as a customs port of entry, so there is a lot going on here.  We decided to anchor in a cove away from the marina, and I’m glad we did.  It’s very peaceful here.  We had a good, calm night last night.  This morning we took the dinghy to the marina dinghy dock and had a productive day in town.  We took care of some business, took a long walk during which we picked blackberries, got groceries and ice for the ice box.  We almost made it back to the boat before the heavy rain started!  We didn’t get too wet.  It was our first real Washington rain – thunder and lightening and everything.  We were comfy and warm inside the boat and the storm didn’t last long.

Tomorrow we are planning to head to Stuart Island State Park.  Here is a little video that we took last week, if you are interested.

http://youtu.be/RQiboaUoy3I

 

 

Pausing during our hike for a snap

Pausing during our hike for a snap

Rainbow at Friday Harbor

Rainbow at Friday Harbor

Toga in the rain

Toga in the rain

Friday Harbor

Friday Harbor

Sunset in Cascade Bay

Sunset in Cascade Bay

Closest I've come to bald eagles are these models on someone's porch

Closest I’ve come to bald eagles are these models on someone’s porch

Cascade lagoon

Cascade lagoon

Cascade Lake trail

Cascade Lake trail

Cascade Lake, Orcas Island

Cascade Lake, Orcas Island

Beautiful Cascade Lake

Beautiful Cascade Lake

Area map of where we've been lately - zoom in to the red circle

Area map of where we’ve been lately – zoom in to the red circle